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Didakta-Zlata-Hruška

Popular climbing routes in Slovenia

A selection of classical climbing routes of Slovenian Mountains. The book offers descriptions, sketches and images of mountaineering routes. Furthermore, the book brings some recent climbing »delicacies« – the climbing routes of higher grades of difficulties -, which will fill with enthusiasm even the young generation of climbers. Angleški prevod knjige Slovenske stene – izbor alpinističnih smeri klasičnega tipa, ki jih nudijo slovenske gore.

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Opis

From introduction:

For quite some years the authors carried the

climbing guide Slovenske stene (from which this book, Popular Climbing Routes

in Slovenia, has been prepared) within their hearts and minds. But young

alpinists wanted to have a survey of the finest routes and mountain walls

throughout Slovenia, and so the guidebook came into being in 1987, followed by

a second edition. Foreign alpinists have often pointed out how good it would be

to translate this book and thus present the best routes to climbers from abroad

who wish to spend some time exploring the Slovene Alps. The choice of routes in

the original book was governed by three criteria: aesthetic (the most

important), historical and regional, and many alpinists were involved in the

selection. Sadly, the author Tine Mihelič died in the Slovene mountains in 2004

and it is in his memory that this selection of the best known climbing routes

in Slovenia has been prepared in collaboration with the two translators.

"We

trust that this guidebook in English will give visiting alpinists a small but

satisfying foretaste of Slovenia's magnificent mountain world."

From the book

»Climbing guidebooks are for the

reason of abundance of material more than ever straitened to specific areas and

do not stimulate climbers to learn more about wider picture. However, Slovenian

Alps are unified and magnificently rounded up climbing area. To learn Slovenian

rock walls as a climbing whole is the main mission of every climber.«

Tine

Mihelič and Rudi Zaman, the authors of the book

Popular climbing routes in Slovenia is also availably as an e-book:

e-emkaamazonbiblos

E-book price is 14,99 EUR.

A Book

Review

The first edition of Slovenske stene, which occupied a niche somewhere between mountaineering literature and climbing guides, became essential reading for all in search of lofty goals in the rock faces (stene) of the Slovene Alps. It was not only that the book had no real competitor in its field,

but even more the fact that just reading a paragraph or two gave climbers itchy fingers and sent them checking pitons and ropes waiting there in the corner …

Leading

Slovenian climber, Pavle Kozjek

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

Eminent British visitors to the Slovene Alps, Grades of

difficulty, Terminology, Order of climbing routes, Key

THE JULIAN ALPS

JALOVEC

1.Horn Route, 2.

North-East Arête, 3. Dular Dihedral

ŠITE

4. Herlec-Kočevar

Route, 5. Belač-Zupan Route, 6. Šite Dihedral, 7. JLA Route

TRAVNIK

8. Travnik Dihedral,

9. Aschenbrenner Route, 10. Debeljak Variant, 11. Black Pearl

THE MOJSTROVKAS

MALA MOJSTROVKA

12. North Arête, 13. Chimney Route

VELIKA MOJSTROVKA

14. Metallurgists'

Route, 15. Debelakova Route, 16. Beggars' Buttress

PRISANK

17. The Devil's Pillar

ŠKRLATICA

18. Skala Pillar, 19.

Škrlatica Ledges, 20. South Ridge

RAKOVA ŠPICA

21. Central Pillar,

22. Right Dihedral, 23. Swiss Route

ROGLJICA

24. Central Pillar

ŠPIK

25. Dibona Route, 26. Direct

Route, 27. Direttissima

FRDAMANE POLICE

28. Schinko Route, 29. Poldač

Route

ŠIROKA PEČ

30. East Pillar, 31. Čihula Route,

32. Opium

THE KUKOVA ŠPICA – ŠKRLATICA RIDGE

33. Ridge Traverse (Kukova špica,

Bivak II, Dovški križ, Oltar, Visoki Rokav,

Srednji Rokav)

SPODNJI ROKAV

34. Potočnik-Tominšek Route

STENAR

35. Brojan Arête,

36. Memorial Dihedral

TRIGLAV NORTH FACE

37. Slovene Route, 38. German

Route, 39. Zimmer-Jahn Exit, 40. Bavarian Route, 41. Peternel Route, 42.

Skala Route and Gorenjska Route, 43. Helba Route, 44. Čop Pillar, 45.

Prusik-Szalay Route, 46. The Mojstrana Squirrels' Arête in the Sphinx, 47. West Dihedral, 48. Locksmiths'

Route, 49. Stairway to Heaven, 50. Sandi Wisiak Route,

51. Trieste Route, 52. Zlatorog Ledges

RJAVINA

53. Central Route, 54. Milliard

TEME

55. Duhovnik-Hočevar Route

(Medvode Route)

VELIKI DRAŠKI VRH

56. Kilar-Levstek Route, 57.

Slanting Dihedral, 58. Central Route, 59. Victoria, 60. Dolar-Kilar-Vavken Route,

Trapez

DEBELA PEČ

61. North-East Arête,

62. Parisian Coquette, 63. Central Route/Jesih-Potočnik

Route, 64. Sekloča Route

THE KAMNIK-SAVINJA ALPS

OJSTRICA

65. Herle Route, 66. Ogrin-Omersa

Route, 67. Ivo Reya Route, 68. Right Route

DEDEC

69. Left Route, 70. Schara Crack,

71. Central Pillar

ZELENIŠKE ŠPICE

72. Ridge Traverse

PLANJAVA

73. Humar-Škarja Route, 74.

Saturday Route, 75. Planjava Pillar – X-Route, 76. Svetelova Route, 77.

Gallery-Window Route, 78. Short Pants Route, 79. Gradišnik-Ogrin Route, 80.

Planjava Head – Dular-Juvan Route

BRANA

81. Upper Pillar and Šija Route

TURSKA GORA

82. Szalay-Gerin Arête

THE RINKAS

MALA RINKA

83. East Route, 84. Iglič Route

ŠTAJERSKA RINKA

85. North-East Arête,

86. Direct Route, 87. Modec-Režek Route

SKUTA

88. The Rinka-Skuta Ridge, 89.

South Arête,

90. Skuta Dihedral

ŠTRUCA

91. Iglič-Verbic Route, 92.

Črnivec-Pibernik Route

KOGEL

93. Kamnik Route, 94. Zupan Route,

95. Virens Route, 96. Yellow Dihedral

DOLGI HRBET

97. Bart Buttress, 98. Triangle,

99. Jubilee Route, 100. Indian Summer

OSP FACE

101. Ancient Route, 102. Medo

Route

ENGLISH-SLOVENE glossar

BIBLIOGRAPHY

The guidebook Popular climbing routes in Slovenia is dedicated to the memory of its main author, Tine Mihelič, who died in the Julian Alps in 2004, and also to the memory of Andrej Zaman, the co-author's son, who early in his alpinist career lost his life in the Himalayas in 2000.

Tine, Rudi and Andrej

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