For quite some years the authors carried the
climbing guide Slovenske stene (from which this book, Popular Climbing Routes
in Slovenia, has been prepared) within their hearts and minds. But young
alpinists wanted to have a survey of the finest routes and mountain walls
throughout Slovenia, and so the guidebook came into being in 1987, followed by
a second edition. Foreign alpinists have often pointed out how good it would be
to translate this book and thus present the best routes to climbers from abroad
who wish to spend some time exploring the Slovene Alps. The choice of routes in
the original book was governed by three criteria: aesthetic (the most
important), historical and regional, and many alpinists were involved in the
selection. Sadly, the author Tine Mihelič died in the Slovene mountains in 2004
and it is in his memory that this selection of the best known climbing routes
in Slovenia has been prepared in collaboration with the two translators.
trust that this guidebook in English will give visiting alpinists a small but
satisfying foretaste of Slovenia's magnificent mountain world."
From the book
»Climbing guidebooks are for the
reason of abundance of material more than ever straitened to specific areas and
do not stimulate climbers to learn more about wider picture. However, Slovenian
Alps are unified and magnificently rounded up climbing area. To learn Slovenian
rock walls as a climbing whole is the main mission of every climber.«
Mihelič and Rudi Zaman, the authors of the book
Popular climbing routes in Slovenia is also availably as an e-book:
E-book price is 14,99 EUR.
The first edition of Slovenske stene, which occupied a niche somewhere between mountaineering literature and climbing guides, became essential reading for all in search of lofty goals in the rock faces (stene) of the Slovene Alps. It was not only that the book had no real competitor in its field,
but even more the fact that just reading a paragraph or two gave climbers itchy fingers and sent them checking pitons and ropes waiting there in the corner …
Slovenian climber, Pavle Kozjek
Eminent British visitors to the Slovene Alps, Grades of
difficulty, Terminology, Order of climbing routes, Key
THE JULIAN ALPS
1.Horn Route, 2.
North-East Arête, 3. Dular Dihedral
Route, 5. Belač-Zupan Route, 6. Šite Dihedral, 7. JLA Route
8. Travnik Dihedral,
9. Aschenbrenner Route, 10. Debeljak Variant, 11. Black Pearl
12. North Arête, 13. Chimney Route
Route, 15. Debelakova Route, 16. Beggars' Buttress
17. The Devil's Pillar
18. Skala Pillar, 19.
Škrlatica Ledges, 20. South Ridge
21. Central Pillar,
22. Right Dihedral, 23. Swiss Route
24. Central Pillar
25. Dibona Route, 26. Direct
Route, 27. Direttissima
28. Schinko Route, 29. Poldač
30. East Pillar, 31. Čihula Route,
THE KUKOVA ŠPICA – ŠKRLATICA RIDGE
33. Ridge Traverse (Kukova špica,
Bivak II, Dovški križ, Oltar, Visoki Rokav,
34. Potočnik-Tominšek Route
35. Brojan Arête,
36. Memorial Dihedral
TRIGLAV NORTH FACE
37. Slovene Route, 38. German
Route, 39. Zimmer-Jahn Exit, 40. Bavarian Route, 41. Peternel Route, 42.
Skala Route and Gorenjska Route, 43. Helba Route, 44. Čop Pillar, 45.
Prusik-Szalay Route, 46. The Mojstrana Squirrels' Arête in the Sphinx, 47. West Dihedral, 48. Locksmiths'
Route, 49. Stairway to Heaven, 50. Sandi Wisiak Route,
51. Trieste Route, 52. Zlatorog Ledges
53. Central Route, 54. Milliard
55. Duhovnik-Hočevar Route
VELIKI DRAŠKI VRH
56. Kilar-Levstek Route, 57.
Slanting Dihedral, 58. Central Route, 59. Victoria, 60. Dolar-Kilar-Vavken Route,
61. North-East Arête,
62. Parisian Coquette, 63. Central Route/Jesih-Potočnik
Route, 64. Sekloča Route
THE KAMNIK-SAVINJA ALPS
65. Herle Route, 66. Ogrin-Omersa
Route, 67. Ivo Reya Route, 68. Right Route
69. Left Route, 70. Schara Crack,
71. Central Pillar
72. Ridge Traverse
73. Humar-Škarja Route, 74.
Saturday Route, 75. Planjava Pillar – X-Route, 76. Svetelova Route, 77.
Gallery-Window Route, 78. Short Pants Route, 79. Gradišnik-Ogrin Route, 80.
Planjava Head – Dular-Juvan Route
81. Upper Pillar and Šija Route
82. Szalay-Gerin Arête
83. East Route, 84. Iglič Route
85. North-East Arête,
86. Direct Route, 87. Modec-Režek Route
88. The Rinka-Skuta Ridge, 89.
90. Skuta Dihedral
91. Iglič-Verbic Route, 92.
93. Kamnik Route, 94. Zupan Route,
95. Virens Route, 96. Yellow Dihedral
97. Bart Buttress, 98. Triangle,
99. Jubilee Route, 100. Indian Summer
101. Ancient Route, 102. Medo
The guidebook Popular climbing routes in Slovenia is dedicated to the memory of its main author, Tine Mihelič, who died in the Julian Alps in 2004, and also to the memory of Andrej Zaman, the co-author's son, who early in his alpinist career lost his life in the Himalayas in 2000.
Tine, Rudi and Andrej