Opis

From introduction:

For quite some years the authors carried the climbing guide Slovenske stene (from which this book, Popular Climbing Routes in Slovenia, has been prepared) within their hearts and minds. But young alpinists wanted to have a survey of the finest routes and mountain walls throughout Slovenia, and so the guidebook came into being in 1987, followed by a second edition. Foreign alpinists have often pointed out how good it would be to translate this book and thus present the best routes to climbers from abroad who wish to spend some time exploring the Slovene Alps. The choice of routes in the original book was governed by three criteria: aesthetic (the most important), historical and regional, and many alpinists were involved in the selection. Sadly, the author Tine Mihelič died in the Slovene mountains in 2004 and it is in his memory that this selection of the best known climbing routes in Slovenia has been prepared in collaboration with the two translators.

“We trust that this guidebook in English will give visiting alpinists a small but satisfying foretaste of Slovenia’s magnificent mountain world.”

From the book

»Climbing guidebooks are for the reason of abundance of material more than ever straitened to specific areas and do not stimulate climbers to learn more about wider picture. However, Slovenian Alps are unified and magnificently rounded up climbing area. To learn Slovenian rock walls as a climbing whole is the main mission of every climber.«

Tine Mihelič and Rudi Zaman, the authors of the book

Popular climbing routes in Slovenia is also availably as an e-book

E-book price is 14,99 EUR.

A Book Review

The first edition of Slovenske stene, which occupied a niche somewhere between mountaineering literature and climbing guides, became essential reading for all in search of lofty goals in the rock faces (stene) of the Slovene Alps. It was not only that the book had no real competitor in its field, but even more the fact that just reading a paragraph or two gave climbers itchy fingers and sent them checking pitons and ropes waiting there in the corner …

Leading Slovenian climber, Pavle Kozjek

BIBLIOGRAPHY

The guidebook Popular climbing routes in Slovenia is dedicated to the memory of its main author, Tine Mihelič, who died in the Julian Alps in 2004, and also to the memory of Andrej Zaman, the co-author’s son, who early in his alpinist career lost his life in the Himalayas in 2000.

Tine, Rudi and Andrej

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

Eminent British visitors to the Slovene Alps, Grades of difficulty, Terminology, Order of climbing routes, Key

THE JULIAN ALPS

JALOVEC
1.Horn Route, 2. North-East Arête, 3. Dular Dihedral

ŠITE
4. Herlec-Kočevar Route,  5. Belač-Zupan Route, 6. Šite Dihedral, 7. JLA Route

TRAVNIK
8. Travnik Dihedral, 9. Aschenbrenner Route, 10. Debeljak Variant, 11. Black Pearl

THE MOJSTROVKAS

MALA MOJSTROVKA
12. North Arête, 13. Chimney Route

VELIKA MOJSTROVKA
14. Metallurgists’ Route, 15. Debelakova Route, 16. Beggars’ Buttress

PRISANK
17. The Devil’s Pillar

ŠKRLATICA
18. Skala Pillar, 19. Škrlatica Ledges, 20. South Ridge

RAKOVA ŠPICA
21. Central Pillar, 22. Right Dihedral, 23. Swiss Route

ROGLJICA
24. Central Pillar

ŠPIK
25. Dibona Route, 26. Direct Route, 27. Direttissima

FRDAMANE POLICE
28. Schinko Route, 29. Poldač Route

ŠIROKA PEČ
30. East Pillar, 31. Čihula Route, 32. Opium

THE KUKOVA ŠPICA – ŠKRLATICA RIDGE
33. Ridge Traverse (Kukova špica, Bivak II, Dovški križ, Oltar, Visoki Rokav,Srednji Rokav)

SPODNJI ROKAV
34. Potočnik-Tominšek Route

STENAR
35. Brojan Arête, 36. Memorial Dihedral

TRIGLAV NORTH FACE
37. Slovene Route, 38. German Route, 39. Zimmer-Jahn Exit, 40. Bavarian Route, 41. Peternel Route, 42. Skala Route and Gorenjska Route, 43. Helba Route, 44. Čop Pillar, 45. Prusik-Szalay Route, 46. The Mojstrana Squirrels’ Arête in the Sphinx, 47. West Dihedral, 48. Locksmiths’ Route, 49. Stairway to Heaven, 50. Sandi Wisiak Route, 51. Trieste Route, 52. Zlatorog Ledges

RJAVINA
53. Central Route, 54. Milliard

TEME
55. Duhovnik-Hočevar Route (Medvode Route)

VELIKI DRAŠKI VRH
56. Kilar-Levstek Route, 57. Slanting Dihedral, 58. Central Route, 59. Victoria, 60. Dolar-Kilar-Vavken Route, Trapez

DEBELA PEČ
61. North-East Arête, 62. Parisian Coquette, 63. Central Route/Jesih-Potočnik Route, 64. Sekloča Route

THE KAMNIK-SAVINJA ALPS

OJSTRICA
65. Herle Route, 66. Ogrin-Omersa Route, 67. Ivo Reya Route, 68. Right Route

DEDEC
69. Left Route, 70. Schara Crack, 71. Central Pillar

ZELENIŠKE ŠPICE
72. Ridge Traverse

PLANJAVA
73. Humar-Škarja Route, 74. Saturday Route, 75. Planjava Pillar – X-Route, 76. Svetelova Route, 77. Gallery-Window Route, 78. Short Pants Route, 79. Gradišnik-Ogrin Route, 80. Planjava Head – Dular-Juvan Route

BRANA
81. Upper Pillar and Šija Route

TURSKA GORA
82. Szalay-Gerin Arête

THE RINKAS

MALA RINKA
83. East Route, 84. Iglič Route

ŠTAJERSKA RINKA
85. North-East Arête, 86. Direct Route, 87. Modec-Režek Route

SKUTA
88. The Rinka-Skuta Ridge, 89. South Arête, 90. Skuta Dihedral

ŠTRUCA
91. Iglič-Verbic Route, 92. Črnivec-Pibernik Route

KOGEL
93. Kamnik Route, 94. Zupan Route, 95. Virens Route, 96. Yellow Dihedral

DOLGI HRBET
97. Bart Buttress, 98. Triangle, 99. Jubilee Route, 100. Indian Summer

OSP FACE
101. Ancient Route, 102. Medo Route

ENGLISH-SLOVENE glossar